About the farm

How to grow grapes from cuttings at home

Grapes are a very thermophilic plant and we are accustomed to growing it on huge plantations, mainly in southern countries. But over the past few decades, through the efforts of breeders, many hybrid varieties have been developed that can bear fruit in central Russia and even closer to the north in closed greenhouses. At an average temperature of ripening +18aboutIn just 100-110 days, you can get a harvest of juicy, aromatic berries. We will discuss further the cultivation and cultivation of such grapes.

How to grow grapes at home

Grapes - just the culture that does not reproduce by seed, since in this case it does not retain its original genetic characteristics. Buy ready seedling favorite varieties are not always possible. That's why the most affordable and common method of propagation of the vine - cuttings.

Its accessibility lies in the fact that at home it is very easy to preserve, plant and root the grapes, prepare them for planting in open ground or a greenhouse. It is best to do this at home, since the process of rooting should begin no later than the end of February - the beginning of March.

The most important thing is to choose a variety of grapes capable of good rooting.

Now many hybrid varieties have this ability, since grafting is one of the main directions of the work of breeders. Most often, gardeners love to plant table varieties with excellent taste, sugar content, large berries (preferably seedless), with early or mid-ripening periods. Practically all these requirements are met by the following varieties: Delight, Kesha, Pleven, various varieties of Kishmish, Laura, Kodryanka, Anyuta, Aleshenkin, Veles and many others.

The whole process of obtaining rooted seedlings takes several months, but in terms of complexity it is not very complicated. Even novice gardeners who decide to engage in viticulture are able to achieve the best results — this crop is so unpretentious, although it requires some attention. The main thing is to take care of and carry out certain activities on time.

В обычную стеклянную литровую банку на дно положить слой ваты около 2 см, налить столько же воды (лучше всего - талой), опустить черенки. Пятка - нижний край - должна быть в воде на глубине 4-5 см. Чтобы избежать загнивания жидкости, можно положить 2-3 таблетки активированного угля, воду доливать периодически. Сверху на банку можно надеть полиэтиленовый пакет для создания парникового эффекта, поставить на подоконник.

Винограду, как и любому растению, для интенсивного роста нужно обилие света и тепла. Сначала появятся веточки, а затем и корни. Чтобы корневая система развивалась, ростки следует отламывать, для кустика достаточно будет одного, самого последнего побега.

Высадка в горшочки в теплице или парнике

Почву для саженцев необходимо подготовить с осени, смешав в равных количествах дерновую землю, торф, песок, перепревший навоз или компост; подойдет и готовая смесь из магазина. В качестве тары можно использовать пластмассовые бутылки, одноразовые стаканчики покрупнее и т.п., сделать дренажные отверстия. На дно тары насыпают немного дренажа, затем подготовленную почву, на нее осторожно опускают черенок, досыпают почвой, слегка(!) увлажняют.

Пятка саженца должна находиться на глубине 1/3 тары, а молодые побеги над поверхностью земли. Приблизительно до конца мая - начала июня молодые саженцы успеют хорошо укорениться, развить полноценные листья и ветки, - подготовиться для высадки в грунт.

In the southern regions, where in March the soil warms to a temperature of 10-12 degrees at a depth of 10 cm, cuttings after processing and soaking can be planted directly into the ground - shkolka. Planting is done in prepared, well-fertilized soil to a depth of 40 cm. The cuttings are laid in the pits (or furrow), covered with earth to half, well compacted, watered abundantly, pitted to the top. On the surface of the earth should remain 2 buds. Focusing on the climate of the region, you can grind the surface or temporarily cover the film.

Another fairly common way of sprouting cuttings - sawdust.

Sawdust should be only hardwood trees, without the admixture of harmful sawdust plywood or chipboard. They need to be steamed before use - pour boiling water, then cool and in a deep bowl (bucket), first pour a small layer on the bottom. Then lay the sawdust in an inclined state, layering cuttings vertically between them. After planting, it is necessary to cover the dishes with foil, put them in a warm place and from time to time moisten the medium until sprouts and roots appear.